How to Lay a Concrete Path

It can be hard work finding use for awkward little spaces around the outside of your house, but adding a pathway can be a functional and cost-effective solution without breaking the bank. The best part? They’re easy to lay with some basic DIY knowledge!

Here, we cover everything you need to know to get a concrete slab securely on the ground.

Tools and materials

You’ll need a couple of tools and materials to get started on your concrete path. You can find some of these here on Trade Tested, while others are available at your local hardware store.

Building the formwork:

String

Timber

Sledgehammer

Pegs

Nails

Formwork stop end

Packers/shims

Mixing the concrete:

Concrete mix, e.g. Golden Bay Cement

Builder’s mix

Concrete mixer or wheelbarrow

Pouring the concrete:

Crushed gravel or road base

Coarse sand (optional)

Plate compactor or hand tamper

Rake

Timber screed

Finishing the concrete:

Trowel

Concrete surface retarder, e.g., Sika Rugasol C (optional)

Hose (optional)

Broom (optional)

Step-by-step guide to concrete pouring at home

Step 1: Prepare the area

Ensure you’re wearing protective gear, and start by clearing the area where you will be working, whether it’s alongside your house, driveway, or behind a garden shed.

Once cleared, run a string line along one edge of the proposed path at the desired finished surface height. This string line will serve as a guide while you excavate the surrounding area to the required depth and width. For most paths, a depth of about 75mm is sufficient to provide a firm foundation for the concrete.

Step 2: Install formwork

Next, build the formwork along the edges of the path. At each end, drive a peg behind the timber using a sledgehammer and nail the timber to the peg at the correct height. To make nailing easier, hold the sledgehammer head behind the peg as you drive the nail.

Once both ends are secure, run a tight string line across the front and along the top of the formwork to ensure a straight and level surface. Use packers of equal thickness to lift the string slightly from the surface. Repeat this process for the opposite side of the path, making sure the spacing between the two sections is accurate by measuring with a piece of timber the width of the path.

Finally, secure a stop-end at the far end of the path.

Step 3: Prepare the base

With the formwork in place, remove any fill from inside the path to reach the required depth of your slab. Check the depth by placing a piece of timber on top of the formwork and measuring underneath; the minimum depth should be 75mm.

For a strong, durable path, add a layer of crushed gravel or road base (50–100mm thick) and, optionally, a thin layer of coarse sand for levelling.

Compact the base thoroughly with a plate compactor or hand tamper, and ensure it slopes slightly (1–2%) to allow water to drain away.

Step 4: Choose a concrete finish

Concrete paths can be finished in several ways, depending on the desired look and functionality. A smooth trowel finish provides a sleek surface but can be slippery when wet. A broom finish offers a non-slip surface for safety. An exposed aggregate finish creates a textured, decorative surface but requires a special concrete mix.

Standard pre-mixed concrete uses a builder’s mix with aggregate up to 20mm, which isn’t suitable for exposed aggregate. Pre-mixed aggregate and sand combinations are available in smaller quantities for this type of finish.

Step 5: Mix the concrete

If you are mixing your own concrete rather than a ready mix solution, use Golden Bay Cement, a general-purpose cement that comes in 40kg bags. Combine it with builder’s mix at a ratio of one part cement to five parts builder’s mix (sand, stones and fines), adding just enough water to make the mixture pliable but not sloppy. Excess water weakens the concrete and can result in a dusty surface once cured.

Small batches can be mixed by hand in a wheelbarrow, while larger amounts are easier to handle with a concrete mixer.

Step 6: Place the concrete

Place the concrete inside the formwork and use a rake to tamp it down, removing air pockets. Screed the surface by running a straight piece of timber across the top of the formwork, removing excess concrete from in front of the screed. Leave a small wave of concrete slurry ahead of the screed and re-screed any low patches until the surface is level.

Step 7: Create an exposed aggregate surface

For an exposed aggregate finish, spray a retarder, such as Sika Rugasol C, once the surface water has evaporated but before the concrete begins to set. The retarder slows the surface curing process, allowing the top layer to be removed with a hose and soft broom, exposing the aggregate underneath. Always test a small area first to ensure the concrete is firm enough to hold the aggregate.

Step 8: Finish up your path

Allow the concrete to cure for at least 24 hours. Once cured, carefully remove the formwork to avoid cracking the edges or corners, and your concrete path is complete.

How to estimate concrete

Concrete quantities are measured in cubic metres (imagine a cube 1m wide × 1m high × 1m deep), as are the aggregates or sands that are included in any concrete mix.

To estimate the volume of concrete needed for a project, multiply the length by the width to calculate the area of the project and then multiply this number by the depth or thickness to calculate the amount of concrete required. Remember this needs to be in metres.

For example, a path 5m long and 750mm wide has a surface area of 3.75m² (5m × 0.75m = 3.75m²). If the path is 75mm thick, multiply the surface area by 0.075 to calculate the amount of concrete required (3.75 × 0.075 = 0.28125m³).

In this case, to allow for any extra concrete that may be required, it would be easiest to round it up to 0.3m³ to account for any waste.

Save money with Trade Tested’s affordable DIY tools

Build a small concrete slab or path in the yard with Trade Tested. We’ve been supplying Kiwis with exceptional products and expert guidance since 2001. Shop concrete mixers, concrete vibrators, and concrete plate compactors to get the job done with ease. Got more questions about your project? Contact us!

Hear from our customers

“Very happy with this mixer. Easy to use and assemble, and great value for the price. Great service from the team at Trade Tested.”

“Used this mixer a few times now, and it goes well and seems to be of fairly solid construction. I've used it with 20 shovels of builders mix in it (a full barrow load) and it seems to handle it well.”

“Very happy with this concrete mixer. We used it for 8 hours on a hot day and made enough concrete to spread 6mx3m at 100mm deep. Cleaned it up and will be using it again in a couple of weeks.Very affordable and well worth the price.”

Frequently asked questions

How do you prepare the ground for a concrete path?

1. 1. Clear dirt, grass and debris from the area where you plan to pour your concrete slab or path.
2. 2. Run a string line along one edge at the desired finished height of the path.
3. 3. Dig out the area to the required depth, usually around 75mm, to create a firm base.
4. 4. Build formwork along the edges of the path and secure it with pegs. Ensure it is straight and level using string lines and packers.
5. 5. Measure between the two sides of the formwork using a timber piece the same width as the path.
6. 6. Place a stop-end at the far end of the path to hold the concrete in place.
7. 7. Remove any loose fill inside the formwork and check that the depth under the top of the formwork is consistent.
8. 8. Use a plate compactor to densify the soil, sand, or gravel, creating a solid, level foundation.

What is the 4:2:1 rule for concrete?

The 4:2:1 rule is a guideline for mixing concrete, using four parts crushed gravel, two parts sand, and one part cement. You can adjust ratios depending on your project requirements and the specific materials you’re using in your concrete mix.

Can you pour concrete directly over dirt?

No, we don’t recommend pouring concrete mix straight onto dirt, as it is unstable, which can easily lead to cracks and shifts over time.

What is the best base for a concrete path?

The best base for a concrete path is a firm, well-compacted layer of crushed gravel or road base, optionally topped with a thin layer of coarse sand for levelling. Start by removing topsoil and any loose material, then spread and compact the gravel or road base to create a solid, even foundation.

How deep does a concrete path need to be?

For standard backyard paths, a minimum depth of 75mm is required. Larger paths or those expected to support heavy loads should be 100–150mm deep to ensure stability and durability.